I’ve enjoyed researching goats enormously. Oddly enough as a tiny child my first word was ‘Jodie’ the name of our milking goat, so I feel I’ve some kind of affinity with these much maligned creatures. Any subject that allows you to research heavy metal, witches and masturbation in its scope is a rich one. I’d better explain: the heavy metal reference is to do with goat iconography in the genre, witches were accused by the Spanish Inquisition of worshiping goats, and Diogenes the philosopher joked that the half-goat half-man god, Pan, taught lonely shepherds how to masturbate.
I figured I’d better cook with a bit of goat meat, too. So for Christmas in August (we were a little late, after getting back from the UK, for Christmas in July), we ordered a couple of Booma Boer goat legs from Feather and Bone and marinated them in loads of brandy, honey, lemon balm and olive oil. We roasted them in a hot wood-fired oven along with a killer garlicky potato gratin, being careful to top up the roasting pans with water. After a good 30 minute rest we served the legs sliced with pan-juices. They were moist, tasty and velvety textured.