The fish markets in Quarteira were a particular pleasure, heaped with everything from the wild and wonderful (long, snake-like espada fish, black with bulging eyes and enormous teeth) to the cheerfully appealing (cockles, pippis and clams in abundance, all spitting at shoppers as they walked by). We bought a gleefully ugly monkfish for a garlicky stew, turning its liver into pate along the way, and ate a plethora of local breams and shellfish. The local recipe for cockles couldn’t be simpler or more delicious: steamed in olive oil, garlic, white wine and fresh coriander.
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